You will need: whipcord; lining (also mesh knitted fabric, fleece for warmer variant); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (length depends on front garment length including stand-up collar height); 2 zippers (length depends on pocket's length); elastic braid of 5.5 cm width for waistcoat; elastic braid of 4.5 cm (1-6/8") width for cuffs.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Right front part - 1 piece
2. Left front part - 1 piece
3. Back part - 1 piece
4. Back yoke - 1 piece
5. Right front yoke - 1 piece
6. Left front yoke - 1 piece
7. Right side part - 2 pieces
8. Left side part - 2 pieces
9. Center sleeve - 2 pieces
10. Lower right sleeve - 2 pieces
11. Lower left sleeve - 2 pieces
12. right sleeve insert - 2 pieces
13. Collar - 2 pieces
14. Cuff - 2 pieces
15. Front facing - 2 pieces
16. Waistband - 1 piece
17. Waistband placket - 2 pieces
18. Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
19. Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
20. Off-set welt - 2 pieces
1. Front part - 2 pieces
2. Back part - 1 piece
3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
Topstitch the warmer to wrong side of collar (1 detail) and waistband placket according to contour.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay fusing reinforcement under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt's width. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt's outer side must coincide with front part's right side. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper on right side of front part at 0.1 cm (1/16") from pocket entrance. Stitch small pocket bag to zipper's lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large pocket bag to zipper's upper braid. Stitch pocket bags' edges together. Pcket bag edges must enter the seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch pieces of right front part and left front part discretely, in the same way as back pieces. Topstitch joining seams along details of dark fabric. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch left/right sleeves discretely. Topstitch joining seams along details of dark fabric. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch joining seams along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
3. Press front facing's inner edge under and topstitch front facing on front part lining. Stitch lining details excepting a segment into a sleeve (to turn the garment right side out). Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
4. Stitch cuffs and elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch it to cuff's length and make 2 decorative stitches. For manufacture stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a ring. Stitch cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braid's edge into the seam.
5. Fix elastic braid into waistband making 2 decorative stitches. Stitch waistband plackets to waistband. Stitch the waistband to the jacket. Fix plackets on wrong side on front part lining.
6. Lay zipper's part on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Overstitch the collar and stitch it into the neckline. Turn the garment right side out.
7. Stitch the lining to cuffs and waistband. Sew technological hole in the sleeve.
8. Topstitch edgings and collar.
9. Press ready jacket.