You will need: moreen, denim or fabric suitable for cloak; fusing; elastic braid; 4 studs; separable zipper.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Flap – 2 pieces
2. Patch pocket – 1 piece
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Back yoke – 1 folded piece
5. Lower back part – 1 folded detail
6. Front part – 2 pieces
7. Front facing – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: flap, collar, front facing, cuffs.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of flap, collar, front facing, cuffs.
2. Press allowance of patch pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Pierce studs’ lower parts. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and stitch it on front part according to marks.
3. Lay pocket details right sides together, stitch them together along outer edges, turn right side out, press and topstitch. Pierce studs’ upper parts. Stitch the flap to front part.
4. Stitch the yoke to back part right sides together. Press the seams towards the yoke and topstitch it.
5. Stitch shoulder/side seams, serge allowances.
6. Press edging closure’s allowance into wrong side, tack the zipper (with its teeth visible). Lay front facings on front part, right sides together, fold one-piece overstitching of hem into wrong side, and stitch it with front facings. Press the seam apart. Overstitch edgings stitching the zipper under. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch.
7. Fold the collar along the center wrong side out, and stitch short edges. Turn the collar right side out, press and topstitch. Press open edges in, insert neckline edge between them and stitch along edges.
8. Stitch upper sleeve towards slit mark, serge the seam and press allowances upwards. Press allowances below the slit apart and topstitch on the sleeve along edges. Stitch sleeve lower seam.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes, serge allowances, press them towards armholes and topstitch.
10. Make pleats in sleeve hems according to marks, press them and tack along edges.
11. Fold the cuff along the center wrong side out, stitch short edges, turn the detail right side out and press it. Stitch cuffs to sleeves right sides together. Press open edges in and topstitch it along joining seam, continue stitching along cuff’s perimeter.
12. Fold the edge of one-piece facing under and make horizontal stitches for elastic braid along the marking. Pull elastic braid into coulisses, fix them with vertical stitch according marks. Topstitch waistband open edge on the garment, continue stitching along waistband perimeter.