Recommended fabrics: cotton or blended raincoat fabrics with water-resistant coating.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Water-resistant fabric with large flower pattern; cotton flannel for lining; separating zipper tape – refer to pattern for length of zipper; 2.7 m (3 yds) of drawcords; 2 wooden buttons 3 cm (1-1/8”)long; 2 decorative snaps 1 cm (3/8”) in diameter; 1 tassel of yellow yarn.
Top Front – 2 pieces
Top Back - 1 piece
Hood - 2 pieces
Cuff - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Right Front Placket - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Closure Tab- 4 pieces
Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
Waist Tunnel - 1 piece
Bottom Front - 2 pieces
Bottom Back - 1 piece
Lining: use Top Front and Back, Bottom Front and Back, Sleeve, Hood and Pocket Bags(2 pcs) without any changes.
1. Assemble welted pockets at each Top Front. Fold each Welt lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch down short ends. Turn out and press. Mark pocket placement at Top Front. Pin Welt, with raw edges directed up, onto face side of Top Front. Place Pocket Bag of lining onto Welt, aligning raw edges at pocket entrance. Pin Pocket Bag of shell, directed upward, at the other side of pocket entrance. Stitch Pocket Bags and Welt to Top Front with two parallel stitchings 1.0 cm (3/8”) apart. Cut the Front between two seams, in corners cut diagonally, forming small triangles at the ends of pocket. Turn Pocket Bags inside through the pocket. Bartack with zigzag raw edge of Welt to Pocket Bag. Align two Pocket Bags, trim to make raw edges even, stitch around. At the wrong side of garment, topstitch triangles onto sides of Pocket Bags. At the face side, topstitch the Welt onto the Top Front at short sides.
2. Sew side seams of Top Fronts and Top Back. Sew side seams of Bottom Fronts and Bottom Back.
3. Sew sleeve seam and sew sleeve into armhole. Press allowances towards Front/Back, topstitch the armhole.
4. Turn under twice the short ends of Tunnel for drawcord, and topstitch. Press Tunnel piece lengthwise in half wrong side inside. Pin the tunnel, with raw edges directed downwards, onto face side of raincoat according to pattern.
5. Staystitch at waist allowance of Bottom Front/Back. Pull threads to make gathers at waistline, so that Bottom matches Top in length at waist. Pin and baste Bottom to Top, inserting Tunnel for drawcord piece in between. Press allowances towards the Top of raincoat, topstitch waist seam.
6. Sew center Hood seam. Press allowances open and topstitch at both sides of the seam. Make buttonholes into the Hood according to pattern markings. Sew Hood into neckline, matching the notches with shoulder seams.
7. Open zipper. Pin each side of zipper, with teeth/coil directed towards side seams, onto face side of garment at center front.
8. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell.
9. Place shell and lining face-to-face, baste and stitch at face edge of Hood, center fronts (sewing zipper in at the same time) and bottom. Turn the garment out through the Sleeve and press at hood, center fronts and bottom.
10. Topstitch the neckline to join shell and lining.
11. Topstitch Hood at the face edge as per pattern, to form a tunnel for drawcord.
12. Double-topstitch at bottom hem of the raincoat at the 2.5 cm (1”) distance from bottom.
13. Fold each Cuff lengthwise in half, face side inside, sew short ends, turn out, press and topstitch at three sides (except raw edges).
14. Sew Cuff to the Sleeve bottom, so that front end of Cuff overlaps back end of Cuff. Turn under hem allowance of lining and hand-sew it to the Cuff.
15. Place every two Tab pieces face-to-face, cut one short end of Tabs in a shape of chevron, and stitch around at all sides except straight short side. Turn out, press and topstitch.
16. Pin Tabs onto the face side of Right Front Placket as per pattern marks, aligning raw edges of Tab and Placket. Place two Placket pieces face-to-face and stitch around the three outer edges, sewing in Tabs at the same time. Turn out, press and topstitch.
17. Place Front Placket, with Tabs directed towards side seam, onto face side of right Front, according to pattern marks, pin or baste. Stitch Front Placket to Front; fold down and press the Placket; topstitch at 1.0 cm (3/8”).
18. Make buttonholes into Tabs; sew buttons to left Front accordingly.
19. Pull drawcord through the Hood tunnel.
20. Sew tassel at the top point of Hood, at the seam.
21. Install decorative snaps onto Cuffs.