Recommended fabrics: Heavyweight jean or other cotton blend fabric.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing, zipper, 1 button, elastic tape 3 cm (1 3/16”) wide.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Side Front – 2 pieces
2. Center Front – 2 pieces
3. Bottom Front– 2 pieces
4. Bottom Back – 2 pieces
5. Side Pocket Part – 2 pieces
6. Center Back – 2 pieces
7. Side Back – 2 pieces
8. Back Yoke - 2 pieces
9. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
10. Waistband– 1 piece
11. Zipper Fly – 1 piece
12. Patch Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
13. Belt Loop - 2 pieces
14. Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Flap, Zip Fly, Waistband.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing Waistband, Flaps and Zip Fly.
2. Sew and serge shaped vertical seam of each Front (Center Front to Side Front). Press and topstitch the seam.
3. Sew and serge vertical seam of each Back (Center Back to Side Back). Press and topstitch the seam.
4. Sew Bottom Front to the Front. Serge seam allowance, press towards Bottom Front. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16").
5. Sew Bottom Back to Back. Serge allowances and press them downwards. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
6. Place Pocket Bag onto Front face-to-face and stitch together at the curved edge of pocket entrance. Clip allowances, turn pocket bag to the wrong side, press and topstitch pocket entrance.
Place Side Pocket Part underneath the Front, matching the notches. Staystitch both pieces at top and side edges with 1 cm (3/8") wide stitching. Sew together and serge Pocket Bag and Side Pocket Part.
7. Stitch Back Yoke to the Back of pants. Serge allowances, press towards Yoke and topstitch.
8. Sew and serge side seams of pants. Press allowances towards Back.
9. Place every two pieces of Flaps face-to-face and sew around the outer edges. Clip in corners; turn out to the face side, press and topstitch the Flap at 0.5 cm. Serge top edge of each Patch Pocket, turn under and topstitch. Serge lower and side edges of Patch Pocket, turn under according to pattern and press. Mark patch pockets’ placement at the pants. Put each Patch Pocket onto pants and topstitch. Place Flap, facing upwards, at Patch Pocket entrance; topstitch the Flap onto pants. Turn the Flap down and topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam of its attaching.
10. Serge crotch seam allowances and pants’ bottom edges. Sew and serge inseams. Press inseams towards Back. Sew crotch seam (preferably, with a triple straight stitch) from top of Back to the notch for zipper start at Front. Make a second, parallel, edgestitching from the crotch seam.
11. Press to the wrong side extended zipper closure facings. Sew zipper under the edge of zipper facing at left Front. Stitch another side of zipper to the zipper facing of the right Front. Fold Zipper Fly piece in half lengthwise and sew at one short edge. Turn out, press. Topstitch left zipper facing onto Zipper Fly. Topstitch right edge of closure, picking up the facing at the same time.
12. Serge one long edge of Waistband piece. Cut elastic according to the size (refer to pattern). Mark Waistband for side seams placement. Place elastic onto waistband at the area being then attached to Back, with 1 cm (3/8") overlapping the marks of side seams. Staystitch ends of elastic at side seams marks on Waistband. You can also Staystitch the elastic to Waistband at center back. Stitch Waistband to the upper edge of pants. Fold Waistband ends face-to-face and stitch down. Clip allowances in corners of Waistband ends. Turn Waistband to the face side at the ends. Topstitch the Waistband right into the seam of attaching it to pants, stitching lower, serged allowance at the same time. Press the Waistband.
13. Turn under hem allowance, press and topstitch the hem. Stitch buttonhole at the right side of Waistband; sew button the left side.