Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends, or soft jean fabrics
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Shell fabric; 7 wooden buttons 1.6 cm (5/8") in diameter, embroidery threads.
Front - 2 pieces
Yoke - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Pocket - 2 pieces
Back - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Patch - 8 pieces
Cuff - 2 pieces
Back Bottom Facing - 2 pieces
Front Bottom Facing - 2 pieces
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Bow for Back - 2 pieces
1. Fold pleats at Front as per pattern, stitch them down, press in direction noted on pattern. Trim each pleat with hand-embroidered zig-zag.
2. Turn under and press allowance at top of Pocket. Turn under raw edge and topstitch.
3. Turn under and press allowances at other sides of Pocket. Place Pocket onto Front as per pattern, topstitch.
4. Place Patch wrong side onto face side of right Front as per pattern. Stitch on, 1 cm (3/8") from raw edges. Pull out loose threads of allowances to create fringe all around each Patch.
5. Sew center Back seam, serge allowances, press towards right Back and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16").
6. Place Yoke pieces face-to-face, encasing Back piece. Align raw edges, stitch Yokes and Back together. Press Yoke pieces upward, topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew Front Yokes to Front in a similar manner.
8. Sew side seams down to the notches for side vents. Serge allowances separately to press them open.
9. Sew Front Bottom Facing to extended Front Facing face sides together. Turn extended Front Facing to the face side of garment, align Front Bottom Facing with bottom of garment and stitch the bottom hem. Turn out the hem, press the Facings to the wrong side.
10. Sew together Back Bottom Facing pieces at center back, press allowances open.
11. Place Back Bottom Facing to bottom of Back, face-to-face, stitch at bottom hem, press the Facing to the wrong side.
12. Turn under raw edge of extended Front Facing and raw edges of Front Bottom Facings. Topstitch onto garment.
13. Place Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch around outer edges, turn out and press.
14. Place Collar into neckline, matching the notches, and sew only under-Collar into neckline of the shirtdress.
Press allowances of this seam inside the Collar. Turn under raw edge of upper-Collar and stitch in the ditch of neckline seam.
15. Topstitch Collar and center front edges.
16. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve down to the notch of Sleeve vent, serge allowances, press towards Front Sleeve and topstitch at 0.5 cm.
17. Work each sleeve vent. Turn under twice raw edges of Sleeve vent, topstitch. Trim the vent with Sleeve Vent Facing. Fold the facing in half lengthwise, wrong side inside, and press. Turn under both long raw edges and press again. Encase edges of vent in Facing and stitch together all layers. Press corners of Facing at top of vent to the wrong side, bartack them to Sleeve.
18. Create pleats at Sleeve bottom as per notches, press the pleats as directed in pattern, baste raw edges.
19. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve, serge allowances.
20. Assemble Cuffs. Fold each Cuff in half lengthwise face side inside, stitch down short ends. Clip the corners, turn out the Cuff. Place reinforced half of Cuff face to face with bottom of Sleeve, stitch together. Press allowances inside the Cuff, topstitch along the seam. Turn under and press raw edge of Cuff, and stitch in the ditch along the previous seam. Proceed to make a topstitching around the Cuff (except already topstitched side).
21. Place Patch onto outer side of Cuff, topstitch and pull out threads of allowances to create fringe.
22. Fold each Bow piece lengthwise face-to-face and stitch at all sides except one short side. Turn out, press, topstitch.
23. Place stripes for Bow, directed towards side seams, onto Back as per pattern. Attach, press towards center back line. Topstitch a square with diagonals.
24. Work buttonholes into right Front, Collar Stand and Cuffs according to pattern. Sew buttons accordingly.