Home / Girls / Others / #7113 Overall
Difficulty: **
Reco?mended fabrics: Heavyweight jean or other cotton or cotton-blend fabric.
You will need: jean fabric; fusible interfacing, 6 buttons, 2 overall buckles, bias tape, lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Jean Fabric:
1. Back of Pants – 2 pieces
2. Front of Pants – 2 pieces
3. Side Pocket Part – 2 pieces
4. Back Top – 2 pieces
5. Front Pocket – 1 piece
6. Front Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
7. Front Top – 1 piece
8. Front Waistband – 1 piece
9. Back Waistband – 1 piece
10. Shoulder Strap – 4 pieces
11. Button Fly – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front Top – 1 piece
2. Back Top – 1 piece
3. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Pocket Flap, Back Waistband, Front Waistband, Button Fly.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing Front Pocket Flap, Back Waistband, Front Waistband, Button Fly pieces.
2. Place Flap pieces face-to-face and stitch around three outer edges. Clip in corners and turn out the Flap. Press; topstitch the Flap at 0.5 cm at three sides.
3. Mark Front Pocket and Flap placement at the Front Top. Serge top edge of the Front Pocket, turn under, press and topstitch. Serge lower and side edges of Patch Pocket, turn under according to pattern and press. Put Front Pocket onto Front Top and topstitch. Place Flap, facing upwards, at Pocket entrance; topstitch the Flap onto Front Top. Turn the Flap down and topstitch onto Front Top at 0.5 cm (3/16") from seam of its attaching.
4. Place Pocket Bag onto Front face-to-face and stitch at the curved pocket entrance. Clip allowances, turn pocket bag to the wrong side, press and topstitch pocket entrance at 0.5 cm. Place Side Pocket Part underneath the Front, matching the notches. Staystitch both pieces at top and side edges with 1 cm (3/8") wide stitching. Sew together and serge Pocket Bag and Side Pocket Part.
5. Place pieces of Front Top from jean fabric and lining face-to-face. Stitch around at all edges except bottom (waist). Clip corners; turn out to the face side. Press the Front Top and topstitch at 0.5 cm.
6. Fold Shoulder Straps in half lengthwise. Stitch at one short and one long side. Turn out, press. Staystitch Shoulder Straps to the upper edge of Back Top of jean fabric.
7. Place pieces of Back Top from jean fabric and lining face-to-face. Stitch around at all edges (with Shoulder Straps incased in between the two layers) except bottom (waist). Clip corners; turn out to the face side. Press the Back Top and topstitch at 0.5 cm.
8. Serge crotch seam allowances, side seam allowances and extended button closure facings. Sew and serge inseams. Press inseams towards Back. Sew crotch seam (preferably, with a triple straight stitch). Make a second, parallel, stitching 0.2 cm (1/16") from the crotch seam, to reinforce the crotch seam.
9. Serge bottom raw edge of the Front Waistband. Turn extended button closure facing to the wrong side and stay-stitch it with a horizontal stitching at the pants’ waist edge. Sew Front Waistband to the Front Top, encasing the Front Top between waistband pieces. Sew lower edge of the Front Waistband to the waist edge of Front of pants. Fold Waistband ends face-to-face and stitch down. Clip allowances in corners of Waistband ends. Turn Waistband to the face side at the ends. Topstitch the Waistband right into the seam of attaching it to pants, picking up the lower, serged allowance of waistband at the same time.
10. Serge bottom raw edge of the Back Waistband. Sew Back Waistband to the Back Top, encasing the Back Top between waistband pieces. Sew lower edge of the Back Waistband to the waist edge of Back of pants.
11. Fold each Button Fly piece in half lengthwise and sew at one short edge (top edge). Turn out, press. Serge Button Fly at side and lower edge, rounding the corner. Clip side seam allowance of Back at notch. Sew Button Fly to the Back of pants at notches. Serge allowances at side edge of Back and Button Fly.
12. Place Front and Back of pants so that Button Fly and extended facing of Front do not get in the way of side seam. Sew side seam up to the Side Pocket entrance. Bartack Button Fly and extended facing of Front from the inside of garment. Fold Button Fly and extended facing towards Front and hand-tack to pocket bag. Topstitch side seam allowances onto Back at the upper area of side seam.
13. Serge bottom edges. Turn under hem allowance and topstitch. Mark and sew buttonholes at Front of pants. Sew buttons at the Button Fly. Mark and sew buttons to Front Top.