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example - #7012 Plaid Jacket preview - #7012 Plaid Jacket

Difficulty: **

Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends for coats (medium-weight).

You will need: Plaid wool fabric; 25 cm (10”) of white-green-striped elastic knit 4 cm (1 5/8”) wide (when folded in half); 2.80 m (3 yds 3”) of green cord; 10 green snaps 1.2 cm (1/2”) in diameter; 4 metal eyelets 0.8 cm (5/16”) in diameter.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Shell:

Front - 2 pieces
Back - 1 piece
Front Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Sleeve Pocket - 1 piece
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Side Front - 2 pieces
Hood - 2 pieces
Sleeve Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces

Lining:

Back - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Hood - 2 pieces

Note: For lining of Back and Hood use patterns of shell with facings area removed; Sleeves – without any changes.

Instructions:

1. Place Front Pocket Flap pieces face-to-face, stitch at curved edge. Clip allowances, turn out; press and double-topstitch.

2. Pin Front Pocket Flap, directed downwards, onto face side of Front as per pattern. Place Pocket Bag on top of Flap, aligning raw edges, and stitch together all layers. Press Pocket Bag down to the wrong side of garment, double-topstitch pocket entrance. Sew another Pocket Bag to Side Front as per pattern.

3. Sew Front to Side Front, matching the notches and stitching Pocket Bags together at the raw edges. Press allowances of Front/Side Front seam towards Front, double-topstitch.

4. Sew shoulder seams.

5. Press under allowance at top of Sleeve Pocket; turn under raw edge and topstitch.

6. Press under all raw edges of Sleeve Pocket. Mark Sleeve Pockets’ placement. Apply and topstitch Sleeve Pockets onto Sleeves.

7. Place Sleeve Pocket Flap pieces face-to-face, stitch at 3 outer edges. Clip allowances, turn out; press and double-topstitch. Place Sleeve Pocket Flap, directed upward, above the Sleeve Pocket, topstitch; Press the Flap down and topstitch at 0.5 cm (1/4”).

8. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Press allowances towards armhole and double-topstitch.

9. Sew side and under-sleeve seams at one go.

10. Install eyelets at Hood as per pattern.

11. Sew center hood seam. Press allowances open and topstitch 0.5 cm (1/4”) at both sides of seam. Sew Hood pieces of lining together, press allowances open.

12. Place Hood and Hood lining wrong sides together, matching bottom raw edges, baste lining to shell at face edge of Hood.

13. Press extended Hood facing to the wrong side over the lining; turn under raw edge of Hood facing and topstitch along face edge of Hood.

14. Pin the Hood into neckline of shell, matching the notches with shoulder seams.

15. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell. Sew Front Facings to lining of Fronts.

16. Sew one piece of Collar into neckline of shell, face-to-face, matching the notches. (You attach Hood to shell at the same time.) Sew another piece of Collar to Front Facings.

17. Place shell and lining face-to-face and stitch together at outer edge of Collar and front edges of Fronts. Turn out, press and baste bottom of lining to shell.

18. Topstitch into the ditch of neckline seam, joining shell and lining.

19. Install eyelets at bottom of Fronts as per pattern.

20. Press under extended facing of bottom hem as per pattern. Turn under raw edge of bottom facing and topstitch, attaching lining at the same time.

21. Topstitch front edges and outer Collar edge at 0.5 cm (1/4”).

22. Cut elastic knit for cuffs in half. Open each piece of Cuff, match short raw edges and stitch them so the Cuff becomes a ring. Fold Cuff back in half, face side outside.

23. Stitch Cuff to bottom of shell, face-to-face, slightly pulling out knit Cuff and matching Cuff seam with under-sleeve seam. Turn under raw edge at lining Sleeve bottom, hand-sew to Cuff with invisible stitches.

24. Install snaps onto Fronts and Pockets as directed in patterns.

25. Cut 1/3 off the cord and insert into Hood tunnel. Insert remaining cord into bottom tunnel.



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