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example - #7048 Olive jacket preview - #7048 Olive jacket

Difficulty: ***

You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks; lining; fusing; 4 buttons of 20 mm (6/8) diameter; shoulder pads.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Center back part - 2 pieces
2. Side back part - 2 pieces
3. Side front part - 2 pieces
4. Off-set welt - 2 pieces
5. Collar - 2 pieces
6. Center front part - 2 pieces
7. Front facing - 2 pieces
8. Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
9. Lower sleeve - 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Pocket bag - 4 pieces
2. Center back part - 1 folded piece
3. Side back part - 2 pieces
4. Side front part - 2 pieces
5. Center front part - 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve - 2 pieces

Fusing: off-set welt, collar, center front part, front facing.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, collar, center front part, front facing.

2. Stitch middle back seam, darts, back relieve seams.

3. Overstitch off-set welt along short edges and press folds. Topstitch along off-set welt at 1 cm (3/8") distance from welt. Coincide open edges of off-set welt with bulk seam's edge of center front part: lay the welt on right side of center front part and coincide off-set welt's upper edge with the notch. Tack upper part of pocket bag to the welt. Lay lower part of pocket bag on right side of side front part. Stitch the welt and pocket bags. Stitch bulk seams excepting pocket entrance. Fold pocket bags inside, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch welts' short edges on front side, along decorative stitch.

4. Stitch jacket's side seams.

5. Stitch shoulder seams.

6. Overstitch the collar along ends and collar fall, turn it right side out and press it. Lay the collar on neckline right sides together (according to marks) and tack the, together.

7. Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart. Stitch seams into armholes according to marks. Press sleeve hems into wrong side.

8. Sew shoulder pads.

9. Stitch lining details together in the same way as fabric ones, excluding a segment of about 20 cm (8") length into one of elbow seams. Stitch front facings to lining. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding them along middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along edgings and neckline. Make lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through unstitches segment into sleeve, then stitch this segment. Sew lining sleeve hem to sleeve hem.

10. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left front part.



Free sewing patterns (PDF) available for download

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