Recommended fabrics: water-resistant raincoat fabrics
You will need: raincoat fabric; lining; fusible interfacing; 2 buckles; 6 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Back - 1 piece
2. Back Belt - 2 pieces
3. Front Belt - 2 pieces
4. Welt - 2 pieces
5. Small Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
6. Large Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
7. Front with Extended Facing - 2 pieces
8. Top Collar - 1 piece
9. Bottom Collar - 1 piece
10. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
12. Cuff - 2 pieces
13. Back - 1 piece
14. Front - 2 pieces
15. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
16. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Welts, Extended Front Facings, Top Collar, Cuffs; pocket reinforcement stripe (about 4 cm (1 3/4”) wide, and length of pocket plus 2” long).
1. Reinforce Welts, Extended Front Facings, Top Collar, Cuffs with fusible interfacing. Apply pieces of interfacing with glue side onto wrong side of each part, press both pieces with hot iron, preferably through the cotton cloth.
2. Assemble Welted Pockets at each Front. Fold each Welt lengthwise face side inside. Stitch down at short ends, turn out, press. Topstitch fold edge only of each Welt. At the wrong side of Front, fuse a stripe of interfacing about 4 cm (1-5/8") wide. Place Pocket Welt and Small Pocket Bag onto Front, face-to-face, matching raw edges of Welt and Small Pocket Bag with the line of pocket entrance. Place Large Pocket Bag at the other side of pocket entrance, pin along pocket entrance. Stitch Pocket Bags to Front with two parallel seams along pocket entrance. Cut pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Be careful not to cut through the Welt and Pocket Bags! Press seam allowances open.
Turn Welt ends and both Pocket Bags inside the garment; baste around pocket entrance and topstitch. Turn to the wrong side small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Pocket Bags between the two parallel seams. Trim Pocket Bags to fit each other, and stitch them to each other. At the face side, topstitch Pocket Welt at the short sides onto Front.
3. Fold each Belt in half lengthwise, face side inside, and stitch at one long and one short side. Turn out to the face side, press and topstitch. Insert Belts into buckles. Topstitch each Belt onto Front and Back as per pattern.
4. Sew shoulder and side seams.
5. Place Top and Bottom Collars face-to-face, and stitch together at all sides except neckline. Clip corners and curved seam allowances, turn out the Collar, press.
6. Sew under-sleeve seam and elbow seam (down to the notch for vent) of each Sleeve. Serge allowances and press open. Sew Sleeves into armholes. Serge allowances.
7. Assemble lining pieces (sew elbow seam of Sleeve down to the notch of vent). Leave an opening in one sleeve seam for turning out the garment. Turn out Front Facings onto the face side of garment. Place lining onto shell face-to-face, inserting Collar between necklines of shell and lining. Stitch lining to shell at front edges, neckline, and bottom. Turn the garment out to the face side. Match bottoms of Sleeves (lining and shell), and stitch them together at the Sleeve vent.
8. Fold each Cuff lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch down short sides. Turn out to the face side, press. Place Cuff onto face side of Sleeve bottom, stitch outer half of Cuff to Sleeve. Tuck allowances inside the Cuff, press. Turn under raw edge of inner half of Cuff, baste to Cuff. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to fasten inner half of Cuff.
9. Mark buttons and buttonholes placement as per pattern. Work buttonholes into right Front and Cuffs; sew buttons accordingly.