Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends typical for coats
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Wool fabric; cotton fabric for lining, 4 buttons 1.8 cm (6/8") in diameter; 2 buttons 1.4 cm (1/2") in diameter.
Front - 2 pieces
Back - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Back Yoke - 1 piece
Hood - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Sleeve Bottom Facing - 2 pieces
Fly Front - 2 pieces
Pocket - 2 pieces
For lining, use patterns of shell for Front, Fly Front, Back, Back Yoke, Pocket and Hood, and pattern of Sleeve with Sleeve Bottom Facing area cut off.
1. Place Pocket Flap pieces face-to-face, stitch around the three sides, turn out, press and topstitch. Place Pocket pieces of shell and lining face-to-face, stitch at sides and bottom. Turn out, press. Turn inside allowances at top edge of Pocket, press. Place raw edge of Flap into the opening at top of Pocket, baste. Stitch at the top edge to fasten the Flap. Place Pocket with Flap onto left Front according to pattern and stitch it onto Front 0.5 cm (3/16") from the edges.
2. Place Fly Front and its lining face-to-face, stitch at front and bottom edges. Clip corners, turn out, press and make topstitching of front and bottom edges at 0.5 cm. Place Fly Yoke onto Front according to pattern, baste together at shoulder and armhole allowances.
3. Form a pleat at top edge of Back as per notches, press and baste pleat at raw edges.
4. Sew Back Yoke to Back, matching the notches. Press allowances towards Back Yoke; topstitch seam at 0.5 cm.
5. Sew shoulder seams; press allowances towards Back Yoke; topstitch at 0.5 cm.
6. Sew sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Press allowances towards armhole; topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew Hood pieces of shell together. Press allowances open. Topstitch at both sides of the seam.
8. Place Hood into neckline of garment, matching the notches to shoulder seams and sew.
9. Sew Sleeve Bottom Facing to the Sleeve bottom, press allowances open.
10. Assemble lining pieces in the same manner as shell. Place shell and lining of garment face-to-face and stitch at face edge of Hood, front edges, bottom, side vent edges, sleeve bottoms. Turn out the garment, press.
11. Sew side and under-sleeve seams of shell at one go. Sew side and under-sleeve seams of lining as well, as much as feasible. Turn under unstitched raw edges of lining, hand-sew to close the openings.
12. Topstitch at neckline to fasten shell and lining together.
13. Make buttonholes into right Front as per pattern; sew buttons to the left Front.
14. Sew button to corner of each Fly Front, picking up Front at the same time.
15. Turn out Sleeve bottoms to form cuffs.