Recommended fabrics: cotton, rayon or cotton blends for shirts.
You will need: shell fabric, fusible interfacing, buttons. You might also want to use contrasting-color thread for all topstitchings.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Front– 2 pieces
Back – 1 piece
Front Yoke – 2 pieces
Back Yoke – 1 piece
Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
Bottom Back Facing – 1 piece
Bottom Front Facing – 2 pieces
Front Placket– 2 pieces
Small Upper Pocket Bag – 1 piece
Large Upper Pocket Bag - 1 piece
Small Lower Pocket Bag – 1 piece
Large Lower Pocket Bag – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
Upper Pocket Welt – 1 piece
Lower Pocket Welt – 1 piece
Fusible Interfacing: Collar, Pocket Welts, areas around pocket entrances.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing Collar, Pocket Welts, areas around pocket entrances.
2. Serge bottom edges of Facings: Bottom Back Facing, Bottom Front Facing and Sleeve Facing.
3. Sew Front Yokes to the Fronts. Serge and press the seams. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16"). Sew Back Yoke to Back. Serge and press the seam. Topstitch at 0.5 cm.
NOTE: You might want to use contrasting threads for all topstitchings.
4. Mark Upper Pocket entrance and Welt placement at the right Front. Fold Upper Pocket Welt lengthwise in half, face side outside, and press. Place Welt onto Front, along the marked pocket entrance. Place Small Upper Pocket Bag (face side down) on top of Welt, aligning raw edges at the pocket entrance. Stitch Welt and Small Bag onto Front, exactly between the marks for Welt length. Place Large Upper Pocket Bag (face side down) at the other side of pocket entrance, pin and stitch onto Front, with 0.8 – 1.0 cm gauge (distance between the seams of attaching two pocket bags). Turn the garment to the wrong side to make sure that the two seams are parallel and gauge is consistent. Cut the Front between the two seams, in corners (1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") ) cut diagonally.
Pull Welt and Pocket Bags to the wrong side through the cut. At the wrong side, bartack ends of Welt vertically from corner to corner. Align, trim Pocket Bags and sew them together at three sides. Baste the Welt to the Front, press. Topstitch short ends of Welt onto Front. Remove basting threads. Mark topstitching at the face side of Front, copying the contour of pocket bag (refer to pocket bag pattern for the contour). At the face side of Front, make a topstitching (you may use contrasting color) at the pocket bag contour.
5. Assemble Large Pocket at the left Front in the same manner.
6. Sew and serge side and shoulder seams. Press allowances towards Back. Sew together Back and Front pieces of Bottom Facings, press allowances open.
7. Sew Bottom Facing to the bottom edge of the shirt. Fold the Bottom Facing over the bottom hem, and topstitch serged allowance into the seam of attaching of the Bottom Facing. Press finished Bottom Facing.
8. Press one of the edges of Placket to the wrong side. Align another raw edge of Placket with the edge of Front, stitch together. Fold Placket back to the wrong side, face-to-face, and stitch top corner of the Placket down to the notch of collar. Clip neckline allowance at the notch for collar. Turn out the Placket, press. Topstitch (with contrasting thread) the seam of attaching Placket to Front, attaching the lower layer of Placket at the same time.
9. Place Upper and Lower Collar pieces face-to-face, sew around the outer edges. Trim the corners, turn out the collar. Press the collar, forming an upper collar roll onto lower collar 0.1-0.2 cm (1/16") wide. Topstitch the Collar around outer edges. Sew raw edge of Lower Collar into neckline. Turn under neckline allowance of the Upper Collar and topstitch it into the neckline seam.
10. Sew sleeve seam. Press allowances towards back. Sew short ends of Sleeve Facing together to form a ring. Stitch one raw edge of Sleeve Facing to the bottom edge of Sleeve. Turn under another, serged edge of Sleeve Facing, topstitch the facing into the seam, press finished Sleeve Facing.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Serge the armhole seams, press.
12. Mark buttons and buttonholes placement as per pattern. Sew buttonholes at the left Front; sew buttons onto right Front.