Recommended fabrics: Heavyweight jean fabrics, corduroy, woolen blends.
You will need: shell fabric, fusible interfacing, 1 zipper, 1 button, 2 buckles 3 cm (1-1/4”) wide, elastic 3.5 cm (1-3/8”) wide.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Width of Buckle Band in patterns corresponds to buckle 3 cm (1-1/4”) wide.
1. Waistband – 1 piece
2. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
3. Upper Back– 2 pieces
4. Lower Back– 2 pieces
5. Middle Back -2 pieces
6. Upper Front – 2 pieces
7. Lower Front – 2 pieces
8. Middle Front – 2 pieces
9. Side Pocket Part – 2 pieces
10. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
11. Cargo Pocket – 2 pieces
12. Cargo Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
13. Cargo Pocket Insert – 2 pieces
14. Buckle Band - 4 pieces
15. Zipper Fly – 1 piece
Fusible Interfacing: frontal area of Waistband, Zipper Fly, Flaps, side pocket entrance allowance.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing frontal area of Waistband, Zipper Fly, Flaps, side pocket entrance allowance.
2. Sew each Back Yoke to the Upper Back. Serge seam allowances, press towards Yoke. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16").
3. Stitch Middle Fronts to Lower Fronts. Serge and press allowances towards Lower Fronts, and topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16") and 0.5 cm. Sew Middle Fronts to Upper Fronts. Serge allowances, press them towards Upper Fronts, topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm.
4. Sew Middle Back parts to Lower Backs. Serge allowances, press towards Lower Back, and topstitch at 0.2 and 0.5 cm.
Sew Middle Backs to Upper Backs. Serge allowances, press towards Upper Front and topstitch at 0.2 and 0.5 cm.
5. Place Pocket Bag onto Upper Front face-to-face and stitch together at the curved edge of pocket entrance. Clip allowances, turn pocket bag to the wrong side, press and topstitch pocket entrance at 0.2 and 0.5 cm.
Place Side Pocket Part underneath the Upper Front, matching the notches. Sew together and serge Pocket Bag and Side Pocket Part. Staystitch both pieces at top and side edges with 0.5 cm wide stitching.
6. Place every two pieces of Flaps face-to-face and sew around the outer edges. Clip in corners; turn out to the face side, press and topstitch the Flap at 0.5 cm. Serge raw edge of each Flap.
7. Sew Cargo Pocket Insert to Cargo Pocket at sides and bottom of pocket.
Serge upper raw edge of the pocket and insert, turn under allowance, and topstitch. Turn under and press allowances Insert at bottom and sides of the pocket.
8. Fold each Buckle Band lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch down at the long edge. Turn out, press, and topstitch.
9. Serge crotch seam allowances and pants’ bottom edges.
Draw Buckle Bands through the buckle, folding the Bands in half and taking two ends of each Band together to go into side seam. Place buckles with two Bands each onto Middle Front, staystitch at 0.5 cm from side/ inseam edge of Front. Trim off extra fabric at the ends of each buckle Band.
10. Sew side seams, serge allowances. Mark Cargo Pocket placement. Place and topstitch Cargo Pocket onto Front with 0.2 cm wide topstitching at Inserts. Mark Flap placement and topstitch each Flap directed upwards. Fold the Flap down and topstitch again.
11. Sew and serge inseams. Press inseams towards Back. Sew crotch seam (preferably, with a triple straight stitch) from top of Back to the notch for zipper start at Front. Make a second, parallel, stitching 0.2 cm from the crotch seam.
12. Press to the wrong side extended zipper closure facings. Sew zipper under the edge of zipper facing at left Front. Stitch another side of zipper to the zipper facing of the right Front. Fold Zipper Fly piece in half lengthwise and sew at one short edge. Turn out, press. Topstitch left zipper facing onto Zipper Fly. Topstitch right edge of closure, picking up the facing at the same time.
13. Fold Waistband lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press. Serge one long edge of Waistband.
14. Sew Waistband to the top edge of pants. Fold Waistband ends face-to-face and stitch down. Clip allowances in corners of Waistband ends. Turn Waistband to the face side at the ends.
Cut elastic according to the size (refer to pattern). Mark Waistband for side seams placement. Place elastic onto waistband at the area being then attached to Back, with ends of waistband 1 cm (3/8") overlapping the marks of side seams. Staystitch ends of elastic at side seams marks on Waistband. You can also Staystitch the elastic to Waistband at center back. Topstitch the Waistband in the ditch, fastening lower, serged allowance at the same time. Press the Waistband.
15. Turn under hem allowance, press and topstitch the hem.
16. Stitch buttonhole at the right side of Waistband; sew button the left side. Press the pants.