Home / Boys / Pants / #7004 Pants with Bottom Tabs
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: cotton or cotton blends
You will need: Heavyweight cotton fabric; 35 cm (1 yd) of elastic 3 cm (1 ¼”) wide; zipper (refer to patterns for zipper length); 3 metal buttons 1.4 cm (about 4/8-5/8”) in diameter.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Side Back - 2 pieces
Center Back - 2 pieces
Side Front - 2 pieces
Center Front - 2 pieces
Side Pocket- 2 pieces
Back Patch Pocket - 2 pieces
Bottom Tab - 2 pieces
Small Right Pocket - 1 piece
Waistband - 1 piece
Belt Loops - 1 piece
Side Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Zipper Fly - 2 pieces
Instructions:
1. Turn under and press top allowance of Small Right Pocket, turn under raw edge and double-topstitch.
2. Turn under and press the rest raw edges of Small Right Pocket, and stitch the Pocket onto right Side Pocket part(refer to pattern for location).
3. Place Side Pocket Bag onto Side Front part face-to-face and stitch together at the curved edge of pocket entrance. Clip allowances, turn pocket bag to the wrong side, press and double-topstitch pocket entrance. Place Side Pocket part underneath the Side Front. Sew together and serge Side Pocket Bag and Side Pocket part. Staystitch pocket area at top and side edges with 0.5 cm (3/16") wide stitching.
4. Sew Side Front to Center Front at vertical seams. Serge allowances, press them towards crotch seam and double-topstitch.
5. Fold each Bottom Tab in half lengthwise, face side inside, stitch down and one long edge. Stitch slanted at one short edge. Clip allowances in corners, turn out, press and topstitch the Bottom Tabs.
Pin each Bottom Tab onto face side of Side Back, aligning raw edges. Sew vertical seams of Side Back and Center Back, attaching Bottom Tab at the same time. Serge allowances, press towards crotch seam.
6. Turn under and press top allowance of each Back Patch Pocket, turn under raw edge and topstitch. Turn under and press the rest raw edges of Back Patch Pockets. Mark pockets placement at Backs. Apply each Back Patch Pocket to Back and topstitch.
7. Sew side seams, serge allowances, press them towards Back and double-topstitch side seams.
8. Sew inseams; serge allowances.
9. Sew crotch seam (preferably, with a triple straight stitch) from top of Back to the notch for zipper at Front. Serge allowances, press them towards left side, topstitch.
10. Press to the wrong side extended zipper closure facings. Sew zipper under the edge of zipper facing at left Front. Stitch another side of zipper to the zipper facing of the right Front. Fold Zipper Fly piece in half lengthwise and sew at one short edge. Turn out, press. Topstitch left zipper facing onto Zipper Fly. Topstitch right edge of closure, picking up the facing at the same time.
11. Turn under and press bottom hem allowance of pants. Turn under raw edge and topstitch.
12. Cut 3 cm (1-1/4”) off front end of Left Waistband piece. Assemble Waistband. Fold Waistband in half lengthwise face side inside, and stitch down short left end of Waistband, and extended right end of Waistband. Turn out, press.
Place the Waistband with its reinforced half onto waist of pants, aligning raw edges at waist, baste and stitch together. Tuck allowances inside the Waistband and press. Turn under and press raw edge of Waistband. Stitch in the ditch of waist seam to attach inner half of Waistband, leaving two small openings at side seams for inserting elastic. Topstitch the Waistband all around its perimeter, but not at the left openings. Pull elastic through the side areas of Waistband. Stitch downs ends of elastic starting at the front vertical seams.
14. Fold Belt Loop piece lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch down at long edges. Turn out and press. Cut Belt Loop piece into 5 pieces. Turn under ends of each Loop and topstitch with strong bartacks onto Waistband as directed in pattern (at vertical seams of Front and Back, and at center back).
15. Work buttonhole into the left side of Waistband and Bottom Tabs (refer to pattern for buttonholes placement); sew buttons accordingly.