Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends for coats
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Wool fabric; lining padded with warmer interlining, 5 fabric-coated buttons 1.6 cm (5/8") in diameter.
Front - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Back - 2 pieces
Sleeve- 2 pieces
Pocket Facing - 4 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
For Lining, use patterns of shell for Back, Sleeve, Pocket Bag; pattern of Front with Front Facing cut off.
1. Assemble frame Pocket at each Front. Fold each Pocket Facing lengthwise in half, wrong side inside and press. Mark pocket opening as per pattern. At each pocket opening, place 2 Pocket Facings with raw edges meeting at pocket opening center. Place and pin Pocket Bag of lining onto lower Pocket Facing; place. Pocket Bag of shell onto upper Pocket Facing. Make two stitchings along pocket entrance, 1 cm (3/8") apart. Cut the Front between two seams, in corners cut diagonally, forming small triangles at the ends of pocket. Turn Pocket Bags inside through the pocket opening and form a frame out of Pocket Facings, each 1 cm (3/8") wide. Bartack with zigzag raw edges of Facings to Pocket Bags. Align two Pocket bags, trim to make raw edges even, stitch around. At the wrong side of garment, topstitch triangles onto ends of Pocket Facings. Topstitch Front around the pocket frame.
2. Sew center Back seam (down to the notch of back vent) and top edges of vent’s extended facings. Press allowances of center back seam towards left Back, topstitch center Back seam at 0.5 cm.
3. Turn allowance of left back vent to the face side and stitch down at bottom hemline. Turn out, press the vent and make a slanted topstitching to fix sides of vent.
4. Sew Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Press allowances towards Sleeve and topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16").
5. Sew side seam (down to the notch for vent) and under-sleeve seam at one go. Press allowances open.
6. Assemble lining similar to shell.
7. Sew Front Facings to lining.
8. Sew one piece of Collar into neckline of coat, matching notches to shoulder seams; sew another piece of Collar into neckline of lining.
9. Place together shell and lining, face-to-face; pin and stitch at Collar, front edges, side vents, bottom and sleeve bottoms. Turn out the coat through the back vent. Press.
10. At the wrong side of garment, staystitch raw edges of neckline to stop upper and lower Collars from separating.
11. Turn under raw edges of right back vent, both shell and lining, hand-sew together. Clip the lining at base of left vent allowance. Turn under raw edge of lining and hand-sew it to allowance of shell.
12. Make a decorative 0.5 cm stitching at center fronts, bottom and side vents, outer edges of Collar and Sleeve bottoms.
13. Make buttonholes into left Front as per pattern; sew buttons to the right Front.