Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends suitable for coats
You will need: Beige wool fabric, brown wool fabric; lining fabric dyed to match shell; zipper for Hood – refer to your pattern for zipper length; 20 cm (8”) of double-fold knit for cuffs, 4 cm (1-5/8”) wide; 1.5 m (1.64 yd) of beige drawcord; 4 toggle closures; 2 metal eyelets 0.8 cm (1/4”) in diameter.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Front - 2 pieces
Back - 1 piece
Hood - 2 pieces
Pocket - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Hood - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Bias for side and bottom edges of Pocket - 2 pieces
Bias for side and bottom edges of Pocket Flap- 2 pieces
Bias for top edge of Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
For lining, use patterns of Front, Back, Front Sleeve and Back Sleeve without any changes.
1. Press under allowance at top edge of Pocket, turn under raw edge and topstitch.
2. Trim side and bottom edges of Pocket with bias tape. Place bias along raw edges of Pocket, face-to-face, and stitch together at 1/4 of bias’ width. Fold the bias over seam allowances and to the wrong side, turn under raw edge and stitch in the ditch of the previous seam.
3. Mark Pockets placement at Fronts. Apply Pocket to Front and double-topstitch at the bias.
4. Place Pocket Flap pieces together, WRONG sides inside, and baste at raw edges.
5. Trim bottom and side edges of Flap with bias as in pt. 2. Trim top edge of each Flap with bias. Mark Flap placement at each Front. Place Pocket Flap on top of Pocket, and double-topstitch onto Front at the edges of bias trim.
6. Sew shoulder seams.
7. Sew elbow seam. Press allowances towards Front Sleeve and double-topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”). Sew Sleeve into armhole, press allowances towards armhole and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
8. Sew side and under-sleeve seams at one go.
9. Sew center Hood seam of brown fabric Hood, down to the notch. Sew center Hood seam of beige fabric Hood. Mark eyelets’ placement at Hood and install the eyelets.
10. Open zipper. Pin zipper sides, with teeth or coil directed towards center hood, onto curved edges of Hood halves of brown fabric.
11. Place beige and brown Hoods together, face-to-face, and stitch at curved center hood edges and face (frontal) edges. Turn out, press and baste at neckline edges.
12. Topstitch Hood halves along zipper. Mark Hood tunnel stitching at Hood, along face edge, as per pattern. Topstitch the Hood along front edge to form a tunnel for cord. Cut the cord in half, insert it into Hood tunnel through the eyelets. Hand-sew or bartack the cord to Hood at the zipper.
13. Place the Hood into neckline of garment, matching the notches with shoulder seams, and baste.
14. Assemble pieces of lining similar to the shell.
15. Place shell and lining face-to-face and stitch together at bottom, center front edges and neckline, sewing-in the Hood at the same time. Turn out the garment, press.
16. Stitch in the ditch of neckline seam to join shell and lining.
17. Topstitch front edges. Topstitch bottom of garment at 2.0 cm (3/4”).
18. Cut double-fold knit in half. Open each piece of Cuff and sew it into a ring. Fold each Cuff in half, wrong side inside, and sew, slightly stretching, to the bottom of Sleeve, matching Cuff seam with under-sleeve seam. Turn under allowance of lining at sleeve bottom and hand-sew to the knit Cuff with invisible stitches.
19. Mark placement and stitch toggle closures onto Fronts.