Recommended fabrics: all fabrics typical for jackets or raincoats.
You will need: fusible interfacing, 1 separating zipper, lining, 6 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Front– 2 pieces
2. Back – 1 piece
3. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Front Facing – 2 pieces
7. Bottom Band – 1 piece
8. Pocket Welt – 2 pieces
9. Placket – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
1. Back – 1 piece
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Small Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
4. Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Pocket Welt, pocket reinforcement stripe, Placket, Cuffs, Bottom Band, Collar.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing Front Facing, Pocket Welt, Placket, Cuffs, Bottom Band, Collar.
2. Fold each Welt lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at short ends. Clip corners, turn out the Welt and press.
3. Mark pocket placement on the wrong side of each Front. Fuse pocket reinforcement stripe of interfacing onto the area around marked entrance (on the wrong side of Front).
4. Mark seam line at each Pocket Welt. Place Welt (face side) onto face side of Small Pocket Bag, with raw edge of Welt directed upwards. Place Welt+Bag onto Front according to pattern, note: Welt should be sandwiched between Front and Small Pocket Bag. Stitch Welt+Bag to the Front. Place Large Pocket Bag at the pocket opening at Front, face-to-face, and stitch 0.8-1.0 cm (3/8") from the seam of attaching Welt. Check accuracy of attaching Welt and Pocket Bags at the wrong side of garment (2 seams must be parallel). Remove basting threads. Cut pocket opening between the seams. In corners, 1.0-1.5 cm (5/8") from ends of pocket, cut diagonally.
Turn Welt and Pocket Bags to the wrong side through the opening. Bartack ends of pocket at the wrong side, at base of each triangle. Sew together Pocket Bags and serge allowances. Baste Welt onto Front, press and topstitch short ends of Welt. Remove basting threads.
5. Place Fronts face-to-face with each other, match at the edges, and check if lengths of Fronts at center front edges are equal. Trim if necessary. Stitch zipper to the center front edge.
6. Place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, pin and stitch at center front edge (note: you should stitch at the Front). Turn Facings to the wrong side, press.
7. Sew upper sleeve seam and press allowances open. Sew sleeves into armholes.
8. Sew side seam along with bottom sleeve seam down to the notch for sleeve vent. Press allowances, as well as the vent, open.
9. Place Upper Collar and Lower Collar face-to-face and stitch at the outer edges. Trim allowances in rounded corners of Collar. Turn out the Collar and press.
10. Assemble Placket by placing two Placket pieces face-to-face and stitching at the outer edges. Trim allowances in rounded corners of Placket and turn the Placket to the face side. Press. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16"). Mark placement of buttonholes. Work buttonholes into Placket.
Mark Placket placement at the left Front. Topstitch the Placket onto left Front (with raw edge of Placket directed towards center front). Turn the Placket out to cover raw edge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
11. Assemble lining pieces, leaving open areas of sleeve vents in lower sleeve seams. Press allowances of lining.
12. Sew lining to Front Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket, and Upper Collar – into neckline of lining. Press neckline seams open. Stitch together allowances of neckline. Turn out the jacket to the face side through the bottom. Work sleeve vents with lining. Staystitch lining to shell at bottom hem and sleeves’ bottoms. Topstitch jacket at center fronts of each Front with 0.5 cm wide stitching.
13. Form and pin pleats at sleeves, according to pattern. Serge one long edge of each Cuff. Fold the Cuff lengthwise in half, wrong side inside. Turn Cuff inside out (face sides together) and stitch down short ends of each Cuff. Clip allowances in corners, turn out the Cuffs.
14. Sew raw edge of each Cuff to Sleeve and stitch in the ditch to fasten serged edge of each Cuff. Topstitch the Cuffs around, press.
15. Serge one long edge of Bottom Band. Press the Band lengthwise in half, wrong side inside.
16. Sew raw edge of Bottom Band to the bottom of jacket, slightly setting in bottom of jacket. Stitch down short ends of Band, clip corners and turn out. Stitch in the ditch of Band seam to fasten serged edge of Band.
Topstitch around Bottom Band, press.
17. Mark buttonholes placement at Cuffs. Work the buttonholes. Mark all buttons placement and sew buttons.